How To Grow Catmint: Care Guide

Catmint is one of those perennials that looks soft and delicate but handles difficult garden conditions surprisingly well. Its gray-green leaves form rounded mounds, while lavender-blue flower spikes attract bees from late spring into summer.

Learning how to grow catmint is fairly simple: choose a sunny spot, give the roots fast-draining soil, and avoid frequent watering or feeding.

A hard trim after the first round of flowers is the small job that keeps catmint looking tidy and brings on fresh blooms.

Catmint at a Glance

Plant detail	Catmint information
Botanical name	Nepeta species and hybrids
Plant type	Herbaceous perennial
Hardiness zones	Usually USDA zones 3–8, depending on variety
Mature height	10–36 inches
Mature width	12–36 inches
Sun exposure	Full sun to partial shade
Soil type	Average, well-draining soil
Soil pH	About 6.0–7.5
Blooming period	Late spring through summer
Flower colors	Lavender, blue, purple, pink, or white
Water needs	Low once established
Growth rate	Moderate to fast
Wildlife value	Attracts bees, butterflies, and other pollinators
Deer resistance	Generally good
Toxicity	Catmint may cause mild stomach upset if pets eat large amounts

Plant size varies widely. Compact varieties may stay around one foot tall, while older or more vigorous catmints can spread three feet across.

Catmint vs. Catnip: What Is the Difference?

Catmint and catnip belong to the same genus, Nepeta, but they aren’t identical garden plants.

True catnip, Nepeta cataria, has a looser shape, coarser foliage, and small white flowers. It contains more nepetalactone, the compound that causes a reaction in many cats.

Ornamental catmint varieties are usually selected for their neat growth, abundant flowers, and longer blooming period. They may still attract cats, but the effect is often weaker than it is with catnip.

If you want a polished border plant, choose an ornamental cultivar such as Walker’s Low, Cat’s Meow, or Cat’s Pajamas. Choose true catnip if your main goal is growing a plant for your cat.

Choosing the Right Catmint Variety

Some catmints remain compact enough for a container, while others can cover a large section of a flower bed. Check the mature width before buying.

Catmint variety	Approximate size	Flower color	Best use
Walker’s Low	24–30 inches tall and wide	Lavender blue	Large borders and mass planting
Cat’s Meow	17–20 inches tall, 24–36 inches wide	Blue purple	Neat edging and pathways
Cat’s Pajamas	12–14 inches tall, 18–20 inches wide	Indigo blue	Small beds and containers
Junior Walker	16–18 inches tall, 30–36 inches wide	Lavender blue	Ground cover and front borders
Kitten Around	12–14 inches tall and wide	Periwinkle blue	Compact gardens
Blue Wonder	12–15 inches tall	Deep blue	Rock gardens and edging
Snowflake	10–12 inches tall	White	Light-colored borders
Six Hills Giant	30–36 inches tall and wide	Lavender blue	Large cottage-style borders

Cat’s Pajamas and Kitten Around are easier to fit into small gardens. Walker’s Low and Six Hills Giant need more room and may cover nearby plants if placed too close.

Although its name suggests a small plant, Walker’s Low is not a dwarf variety. It was named after a garden rather than its height.

When to Plant Catmint

Plant catmint in spring after the danger of severe frost has passed. The cool weather and regular spring moisture help new roots grow before summer heat arrives.

Early fall is also a suitable planting time. Put the plants in the ground at least four to six weeks before the first expected hard freeze. This gives the roots time to settle while the soil remains warm.

Avoid planting during very hot summer weather. If you already purchased the plant, keep it watered in its nursery pot and wait for a cooler, cloudy day.

Where to Plant Catmint

Sunlight

Catmint grows and flowers best with at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. A full-sun position produces dense growth and plenty of flower spikes.

Light afternoon shade can help in areas with very hot summers. However, too much shade causes the stems to stretch toward the light. The plant may open in the center and produce fewer flowers.

Observe the proposed planting area during the day. A bed that receives morning sun may become heavily shaded once nearby trees or buildings block the afternoon light.

Soil

Use average soil that drains freely after rain. Catmint can grow in sandy, rocky, or moderately poor ground and rarely needs heavily amended soil.

Rich soil often causes unnecessary leafy growth. The stems become longer and may fall across paths or neighboring plants.

Catmint dislikes ground that remains wet, especially during winter. If you have heavy clay, plant it on a raised mound or in a raised bed instead of placing the crown in a low, damp area.

Spacing

Use the plant’s mature width to decide the spacing rather than its size in the nursery pot.

As a general guide:

Space compact varieties 12–18 inches apart.
Space medium varieties 18–24 inches apart.
Give large, spreading catmints 24–36 inches.
Leave additional room beside paths and lawn edges.
Keep the plant away from delicate perennials that could be covered by its stems.

A newly planted border may look sparse. That gap usually disappears once catmint starts growing in its second season.

How to Plant Catmint

Water the nursery plant.
Water the pot an hour or two before planting. A moist root ball slides out more easily and is less likely to break apart.
Clear the planting area.
Remove weeds, grass, and large stones. Pay close attention to perennial weed roots because they become difficult to remove once catmint fills the space.
Dig a wide hole.
Make the hole about twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Wide, loosened soil helps the new roots travel outward.
Remove the plant from its pot.
Support the base of the plant while easing off the container. Don’t pull it out by its stems.
Loosen crowded roots.
Tease out circling roots with your fingers. If the root ball is tightly packed, make a few shallow vertical cuts around its sides.
Set the crown at soil level.
Position the point where the stems meet the roots level with the surrounding ground. Planting too deeply can hold moisture around the crown.
Backfill the hole.
Return the original soil and press it gently around the roots. There is usually no need to place fertilizer in the planting hole.
Water deeply.
Soak the whole root area to settle the soil and remove large air pockets.
Apply a thin mulch.
Spread one or two inches of fine bark, gravel, or shredded leaves around the plant. Keep the material a few inches away from the crown.

One common mistake is improving only the planting hole with a large amount of compost. In compact clay, this can create a pocket that collects water. Improve the wider bed or plant slightly above ground level instead.

How Often to Water Catmint

New catmint needs steady moisture while its roots become established. Check the ground every few days during the first month and water when the top one to two inches feel dry.

Water slowly enough to wet the entire root ball. A quick splash may dampen the surface while leaving the lower roots dry.

Once established, catmint handles short dry spells well. Water deeply during long periods without rain, then let the upper soil dry before watering again.

Signs that catmint is receiving too much water include:

Yellow lower leaves
Weak or unusually soft stems
A plant that falls open
Dark tissue around the crown
Fewer flowers
Roots that smell sour or appear brown and soft

Morning is the best watering time. Direct the water toward the soil rather than soaking the foliage every evening.

Catmint grown in a container dries more quickly. Check potted plants regularly during hot weather, but don’t leave the pot standing in a full saucer.

Does Catmint Need Fertilizer?

Catmint planted in the ground rarely needs regular fertilizer. A thin layer of finished compost in spring is usually enough.

Too much nitrogen produces plenty of foliage but can reduce flowering and weaken the plant’s rounded shape. Avoid frequent applications of liquid feed and don’t place fresh manure around the crown.

If a plant is growing poorly, check these conditions before feeding it:

Does it receive at least six hours of sun?
Does water drain away after rain?
Is it being watered too frequently?
Has another plant or tree root crowded its growing area?

Container-grown catmint may need one light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring. Use less than the amount suggested for heavy-feeding annual flowers.

How to Prune Catmint for More Flowers

Catmint usually produces its heaviest round of flowers in late spring or early summer. Once most of those flower spikes fade, cut the entire plant back by one-third to one-half.

Use clean garden shears and shape the remaining foliage into a low mound. Water after trimming if the soil is dry. New leaves soon cover the cut stems, and many varieties produce another round of flowers.

Don’t limit pruning to removing individual dead flowers on a large plant. Shearing the whole mound is faster and gives a cleaner result.

A few varieties continue flowering without a hard trim, but cutting them back still helps when the stems begin leaning over a path or opening in the center.

In late fall, you can leave the dry growth in place or remove it. Leaving some stems can provide winter cover for insects. Cut the old material down to a few inches before fresh spring growth becomes tangled in it.

Catmint Care Through the Seasons

Spring

Remove dead stems as new shoots appear around the crown. Cut carefully so you don’t damage the fresh growth hidden beneath the old foliage.

Spring is a good time to plant, divide crowded clumps, or move catmint that has outgrown its position. Add a small amount of compost, but skip routine heavy feeding.

Summer

Shear the plant after its first main flowering period. This midseason haircut keeps the growth compact and usually brings a second flush.

Water established plants only when prolonged heat or dry weather causes lasting wilting. Occasional wilting during a hot afternoon isn’t always a reason to water; check the soil first.

Fall

Stop fertilizing and allow growth to slow naturally. Early fall remains a suitable time for planting and division, provided several weeks remain before hard frost.

Remove unwanted seedlings before they develop deep roots. Sterile or low-seeding cultivars need much less control.

Winter

Cold-climate plants die back to the crown. This is normal and doesn’t mean the plant has died.

Keep wet leaves and thick mulch from piling over the crown. Catmint handles low temperatures better than waterlogged winter soil.

Growing Catmint in Containers

Compact catmint varieties work well in sunny patio pots. Choose a container at least 12–16 inches wide for a small cultivar. Larger varieties need an 18–24-inch pot.

The container must have open drainage holes. Fill it with a loose commercial potting mix rather than soil dug from the garden.

Plant the crown at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. Leave a small gap beneath the rim so water doesn’t spill over before soaking into the soil.

Container catmint needs more attention than a plant in the ground:

Check the soil frequently in hot weather.
Water when the top two inches feel dry.
Empty standing water from saucers.
Trim after the first flush of flowers.
Repot or divide the plant when roots fill the container.

Perennial roots are more exposed to winter cold in pots. Move the container to a sheltered position or an unheated garage in colder regions. The soil shouldn’t remain soaked, but it also shouldn’t stay completely dry for the entire winter.

How to Divide Catmint

Divide catmint every three to four years, when it becomes too wide for its position, or when the center starts producing weak growth.

Early spring is the easiest time because the shoots are still short. Early fall can also work in milder climates.

Water the plant the day before division.
Cut the old stems back to several inches.
Dig around the outer edge of the clump.
Slide a spade beneath the roots and lift the plant.
Pull or cut the clump into healthy sections.
Remove dead or woody material from the center.
Replant each section at its original depth.
Water thoroughly and keep the soil lightly moist during recovery.

Each division needs several healthy shoots and a good group of roots. Small pieces may survive, but larger divisions recover more quickly.

Growing Catmint from Seed

Catmint can be grown from seed, although seedlings from named cultivars may not match the parent plant. Their flower color, size, or growth habit may be different.

Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last expected spring frost. Sow them on moist seed-starting mix and cover them only lightly.

Keep the tray bright and evenly moist rather than wet. Once the seedlings have several true leaves, move them into individual pots.

Harden the young plants gradually before placing them in the garden. Start with an hour or two in a protected outdoor position, then extend the time over seven to ten days.

Direct sowing is also possible after frost, though small seedlings can be mistaken for weeds. Mark the area and keep the upper soil lightly moist until germination.

For a particular cultivar, buying a nursery plant or taking a cutting is more reliable than seed.

Propagating Catmint from Cuttings

Take soft stem cuttings in late spring or early summer before the chosen shoots begin flowering.

Cut a healthy, non-flowering stem about three to five inches long. Remove the leaves from the lower half and place the stem in a small pot of moist propagation mix.

Keep the pot in bright, indirect light. Covering it loosely with a clear bag helps slow moisture loss, but leave enough airflow to prevent mold.

New resistance when you tug the stem gently usually means roots have formed. Move the young plant into a larger pot and let it grow stronger before planting outside.

Common Catmint Problems

Problem	Likely cause	What to do
Few flowers	Too much shade	Move the plant to a sunnier location
Long, weak stems	Rich soil, fertilizer, or low light	Stop feeding and increase sunlight
Plant opens in the center	Mature growth after flowering	Shear it back by one-third to one-half
Yellow leaves	Excess water or poor drainage	Let the soil dry and correct drainage
Crown becomes soft	Crown or root rot	Remove damaged tissue and improve drainage
Brown, dry leaves	Extended drought or root stress	Water deeply and check the root area
White coating on leaves	Powdery mildew	Improve airflow and avoid late overhead watering
Plant covers a path	Variety is too large for the space	Prune, divide, or move it farther from the edge
Young plant looks crushed	Cat has rolled on it	Protect it temporarily with a wire plant guard

Catmint has relatively few serious pest problems. Aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies may appear on stressed plants, but they rarely cause lasting damage to a healthy clump.

Use a firm spray of water to remove a small infestation. Avoid spraying open flowers with broad insecticides because bees visit catmint frequently.

Why Catmint Becomes Floppy

A catmint plant usually falls open because it has grown too long, received too much fertilizer, or isn’t getting enough sun.

Large varieties naturally relax as the flowers age. Shearing after the first bloom is the easiest fix.

If the problem returns quickly, look at the growing conditions. Stop feeding the plant and check whether nearby shrubs are casting more shade than they did when the catmint was planted.

You can also move a large plant farther back in the border, where its spreading shape won’t cover a path. Replace it with a compact variety near the front.

Best Companion Plants for Catmint

Catmint looks best beside plants that enjoy similar sunlight and drainage. The soft blue-purple flowers also help calm stronger yellows, reds, and oranges.

A few reliable combinations include:

Lavender has upright flower stems and silvery foliage that suit a dry, sunny bed. Leave enough space between the plants so air can move around both.
Daylilies rise above the lower catmint foliage. The catmint helps cover the bare soil around their leaf clumps.
Shasta daisies add crisp white flowers above the loose blue catmint blooms. Both prefer a sunny position, though daisies appreciate slightly more moisture.
Yarrow works well in dry borders. Its flat flower heads contrast with catmint’s upright spikes.
Roses pair naturally with catmint because the low foliage hides bare lower stems without blocking the rose flowers.
Salvia adds taller flower spikes and extends the blue-purple color through the planting.
Coneflowers bring larger daisy-shaped blooms to the middle or back of the border.
Ornamental grasses add movement after the main catmint flowers begin to fade.

Although hostas are attractive perennial companions in garden design, they usually prefer shadier, moister conditions. Use hostas on the shaded side of a mixed bed and keep catmint in the sunnier, drier section rather than planting them in the same irrigation zone.

Can Catmint Spread Too Much?

The answer depends on the variety. Many modern ornamental cultivars form widening clumps but don’t spread aggressively through underground runners.

Some species produce plenty of seed and may appear in paths or nearby beds. Remove faded flowers before seeds develop if you want tighter control.

Dividing the outer sections every few years keeps the plant within its allotted space. In a small bed, choose a sterile or low-seeding cultivar and avoid planting a large variety where it can lean over delicate neighbors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does catmint come back every year?

Yes. Catmint is a perennial in suitable hardiness zones. The top growth may die after frost, but new shoots emerge from the crown in spring.

Does catmint need full sun?

Catmint grows best with at least six hours of direct sun. It can handle partial shade, especially in hot climates, but heavy shade produces fewer flowers and weaker stems.

How long does catmint take to grow?

A small nursery plant begins filling out during its first season and usually reaches a fuller size in its second year. Large varieties may spread more quickly when planted in warm soil with adequate water.

How do I keep catmint blooming?

Cut the entire plant back by one-third to one-half once the first large flush of flowers fades. Water it after pruning if the ground is dry. Fresh growth should produce more flowers.

Can catmint grow in clay soil?

It can grow in clay if the site drains well. Plant the crown on a low mound or use a raised bed when water remains on the surface after rain.

Is catmint drought tolerant?

Established catmint handles dry periods well. New plants still need regular watering until their roots spread into the surrounding soil.

Should catmint be cut back in fall?

Fall pruning is optional. You can remove untidy stems after frost or leave them through winter and clean up the plant in early spring.

Will catmint attract cats?

Some cats respond to ornamental catmint, though true catnip usually causes a stronger reaction. Protect young plants with a small wire barrier if rolling or chewing becomes a problem.

Is catmint deer resistant?

The scented foliage usually makes catmint unappealing to deer and rabbits. No plant is completely safe when animals are hungry, but catmint is generally a dependable choice for deer-prone gardens.

Can catmint grow indoors?

Catmint isn’t a good long-term houseplant. It needs strong direct sunlight, good airflow, and a natural period of winter rest. A sunny outdoor container is usually a better option.